Category Archives: French Hair Comb

Cartier and White Jade

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This tortoise comb from Cartier was made c. 1920. The hinged tiara is a carved coral segment framed in pearls, decorated with 1.15 carats of old European-cut diamonds. It is signed Cartier, Paris, and numbered 0000 and 0288 (maker’s marks). It also has French Assay marks, with an estimated value is $10,000 to $15,000.

This Chinese white-jade comb comes from the Tang Dynasty (618–907). The authenticity of its age can be verified because it is listed in “Jades in the Hei-Chi Collection,” Beijing, 2006, p. 135. Its estimated value is $9000.

Some Lovely Things

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First up today is a 19th Century Portuguese tiara made of gold metal, sapphires, and baroque pearls, c. 1840. It sold for $1100.

We continue with a French blonde tortoiseshell back comb, c. 1890. The center ornament is a blue and white cameo of angels posing as the three muses. It is encased with diamonds. On each side are pearls separated by two gold leaves with a diamond in the center, and side blue enamel plaques with diamond roses. It sold for $3200.

Our last comb is by George Fouquet. The scrolled top of this blonde tortoiseshell comb is bordered with diamonds, and graced with opal leaves on both sides. Calibré-cut amethysts, three diamonds and a gold leaf reside in the middle. The piece is signed G.Fouquet and sold for $11,176.

The Peacock

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First, Rene made a simple horn comb. Then he attached a gold medallion with inlaid mother-of-pearl clovers. He elongated the horn on the top-right to frame a real peacock feather. To hold the feather in place, he carved and attached a magnificent gold bird, with its royal plumage of peacock feathers carved in gold flowing over the tines. What a beautiful idea of both art and engineering. c. 1902-1903.

Another peacock dream Rene had was this pectoral. Usually associated with ancient Egypt as a medallion attached to a necklace, or a brooch, I think this piece could easily function as a barrette. Using the Symbolist philosophy of Art Nouveau, the peacock and its feathers are done in blue and green enamel accompanied by randomly set cabachon opals. Diamonds bookmark the piece. c. 1902-1903.

Bats and Sapphires

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Rene Lalique made a comb he called, “Bats.” I did a collection of combs with rats and bats on them, I guess this was his entry into rodent life. :-) They are made of blue enamel on a horn comb.

This next one could not be more of a contrast. It’s a tiara of gold, enamel, and sapphires hinged to a horn comb, which a lady would wear to the opera to highlight a sumptuous blue gown. c.1902 – 1903. The comb resides at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.

Child & Child

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Best known for its British Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau jewelry, this firm opened in 1880, producing neo-Renaissance pieces. From 1891 – 1916, the imaginative, bright enamel work on their peacock, wing, and insect designs won them Royal patronage. In 1916, the firm closed.

This piece, which is signed, might be part of their earlier work. Hinged to a tortoiseshell comb, the silver tiara is laced with garnets. What I love about it though is the hat on top with its ribbons flowing through silverwork. It sold at Sotheby’s for 1350 UKP.

However, when Child & Child’s artistry became revolutionary, one of their most famous pieces was a tiara of two bright blue enamel peacock wings, which sold at the Tadema Gallery in London. I know the price range was over 20,000 UKP, but I cannot imagine the exact, final price.

Piel Freres Buckle/Barrette

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This buckle, which can also be worn as a barrette, sports two dragonflies looking at each other. It is made from gilt- and silver-plated metal, metal enamel, and the stones are paste. It is marked with the correct PF signature and was made c. 1905. In the literature, it is listed in the book, “The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910, Munich, 1991, p.273-277.” It is selling at the Tadema Gallery in London for $5,000 +.

Diamond and Horn Comb

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This unsigned French art nouveau comb was made of horn, lined with diamonds at the top, and adorned with gold flowers and diamonds in the center.

But this comb has a unique feature. Usually, the engineering belongs to the tines at the bottom. A comb is a practical item designed to hold hair in place, which existed since man first evolved.

I have never seen a chain attached to the top, hooking onto a stick designed to go into two holes, as an additional way to hold hair. It allows you to choose between tines alone, and using the stick as an ornament; using the stick alone and wearing the piece in a longer hairdo; or using both. Very inventive. But since it is unsigned, it’s value is estimated between $4000 and $5000. Update: This comb sold for 2995 euros, or $4280.53