Ann Getty’s Tiara

This is an important Cartier piece because its design is unique. Made in the 1930s, two posies of leaves, ribbons, and detachable flower heads are worn at each temple. The tiara is connected by a crescent of stones. On top is a panache motif of flowers, ribbons and scrolls. The old European-cut diamonds weigh approximately 175.00 carats. Cartier signed it and made it in London. Its estimated value is $250,000.

Cartier and White Jade

This tortoise comb from Cartier was made c. 1920. The hinged tiara is a carved coral segment framed in pearls, decorated with 1.15 carats of old European-cut diamonds. It is signed Cartier, Paris, and numbered 0000 and 0288 (maker’s marks). It also has French Assay marks, with an estimated value is $10,000 to $15,000.

This Chinese white-jade comb comes from the Tang Dynasty (618–907). The authenticity of its age can be verified because it is listed in “Jades in the Hei-Chi Collection,” Beijing, 2006, p. 135. Its estimated value is $9000.

This comb from the Tlingit tribe of the Pacific Northwest depicts the head, torso and forelegs of a bear. Human faces are carved within the bear’s ears, and a bear cub’s face peaks out between them. There is symmetry between the bear’s teeth, claws, and the comb’s tines. The reverse side features two human feet with cross-hatching on the soles; intriguingly the right foot has six toes. The decorative surround framing the feet may well represent a stylized bear’s den.

Historians are not sure if these combs were used by women or shamans. Others suggest weavers to carded mountain goat wool with them. Whatever the application, this classic evocative carving was old when it was collected in 1867-68, and the comb is attributed to the year 1772. It sold for $37,600.

Some Lovely Things

First up today is a 19th Century Portuguese tiara made of gold metal, sapphires, and baroque pearls, c. 1840. It sold for $1100.

We continue with a French blonde tortoiseshell back comb, c. 1890. The center ornament is a blue and white cameo of angels posing as the three muses. It is encased with diamonds. On each side are pearls separated by two gold leaves with a diamond in the center, and side blue enamel plaques with diamond roses. It sold for $3200.

Our last comb is by George Fouquet. The scrolled top of this blonde tortoiseshell comb is bordered with diamonds, and graced with opal leaves on both sides. Calibré-cut amethysts, three diamonds and a gold leaf reside in the middle. The piece is signed G.Fouquet and sold for $11,176.

Edo, the era of beauty

All the artists who made these combs, c. 1800, are unknown. The first is carved and incised ivory with openwork, showing two cranes pointing at a family crest, which in Japanese is called KA-MON. KA means families with their own genealogical trees, and MON means crest.

The second comb is made of tortoiseshell, graced with cream and red lacquer. The artist painted two plover birds flying to a rest spot on a bamboo tree branch. The two points of interest are on the sides of the comb: the left edge shows the birds, while just to the right side, lined up with the tines, a red bamboo trunk waits for the birds to land on its branches.

Third, is a square tortoiseshell comb with several floral gold maki-e designs.

Last but not least, is a grey half-moon-shaped comb showing a mother-of-pearl half moon shining amid a sky of gold stars and chimeras.

All four combs reside in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

The Peacock

First, Rene made a simple horn comb. Then he attached a gold medallion with inlaid mother-of-pearl clovers. He elongated the horn on the top-right to frame a real peacock feather. To hold the feather in place, he carved and attached a magnificent gold bird, with its royal plumage of peacock feathers carved in gold flowing over the tines. What a beautiful idea of both art and engineering. c. 1902-1903.

Another peacock dream Rene had was this pectoral. Usually associated with ancient Egypt as a medallion attached to a necklace, or a brooch, I think this piece could easily function as a barrette. Using the Symbolist philosophy of Art Nouveau, the peacock and its feathers are done in blue and green enamel accompanied by randomly set cabachon opals. Diamonds bookmark the piece. c. 1902-1903.