I am working with lights, a friend’s instructions, flashes, oh my God there is so much to think about… :-) Here are four comb pictures from my collection. The first is a Chinese ivory export comb for the Victorian market, c. 1890. The second is a Chinese hair stick with a blonde shell bird on top. Last is a Japanese Meiji ivory set in perfect condition, which depicts flowers blowing in the wind. Enjoy!
In 1936, the Duke of York (later King George VI) bought this tiara for Queen Elizabeth II’s mother, the Queen Mum. Cartier called it the “Halo” tiara. A fashion journalist also dubbed it the “Scroll” tiara. Both names stuck.
Wedding costume tradition dictates “something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue.” As her mother gifted the tiara to Queen Elizabeth II on her 18th birthday, so the Queen loaned it to Kate on her wedding day.
That Princess Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, wore a priceless antique is thrilling. That she also has Diana’s engagement ring puts her at the pinnacle of provenance. She looked radiant.
It’s on sale on E-bay for $2500. In the Victorian Era, coral jewelry was said to promote good health. Seeing this and not being able to buy it promotes agony, so I’m not sure the Victorian theory has transposed well into the 21st Century. ;-) Branch coral on tortoiseshell, c. 1890. It’s a knockout.
The kanzashi’s original purpose was a charm against evil spirits. The tradition began as early as 1000 BC to 300 AD, in Japan’s Jomon Era. Decorating them with flowers invited deities. The art captured the Japanese cultural imagination in the Edo era (1603 – 1867), when criminal activity increased. This initiated laws that prohibited people from going out in hats or head coverings, so hairdressing once again came to the forefront of Japanese fashion.
There are many different kinds of kanzashi:
The most interesting ones have unique elements, either as a single decoration or a set of concepts. I’d like to feature three today, one each, from my collection, The Miriam Slater Collection, and The Creative Museum.
My bridal kanzashi is decorated with Mino-Kame — a straw raincoat, which used to be worn before the invention of textiles; a tortoise and pine boughs for longevity; a scroll of wisdom; a treasure box; and flowers, indicating nobility.
Miriam’s kanzashi is unique. A man with a fishing pole sits on a curved leaf structure, surrounded by dangling chains.
Finally, the Creative Museum has one I absolutely love: a gold fish, whose face looks almost human.
African intellectual history came alive when sculptors placed figures on top of hair combs. These ideas are beautifully shown in Facing Me, Facing You, a video narrated by the Creative Museum.
There have been many lovely combs on the American, British, and French E-bay sites. However, some dealers misidentify their comb’s country of origin. Here are two examples. Please see item #130476761205.
The hairpin is stunning, condition excellent, no arguments that it would be a wonderful piece for any collection. There’s only one problem. It’s a Chinese gold-filigree ornament from the Qing Dynasty (1644 – 1911). According to research from the Creative Museum, “During the Qing Dynasty, many jewels were made of gold-wire filigree. (See book “Gems of Beijing Cultural Relics Series” published by Beijing Publishing House, page 221 – ISBN: 7-200-04899-2)” Here is a picture of their Qing hairpin:
The second misidentified comb did not sell. Please see item #160568156596.
Another lovely piece, but again, it’s not Japanese. It’s from the Punjab Region of Pakistan. The Creative Museum has a gorgeous one with beads, pearls, wood indentations, and a fish theme.
This kanzashi IS Japanese. It’s gorgeous. Please refer to item #280637283941. It’s going for $725, but the seller is accepting offers.
Sotheby’s sold this set of 4 coral, gold, and tortoiseshell Sicilian combs for 3120 EUR on June 20. They are c. 1890 and came in their original box.
The one I bought :-)
The one I didn’t buy. :-(
From the Creative Museum
This elegant painted horn comb touches those who have Lalique hearts. Even though the design is layered, the transparency allows light to shine through the comb, perfectly expressing a dragonfly in real life.
There is a lovely silver framed Edo set selling on Ebay for $1250. Using studs to attach the floral decoration to the kushi’s silver frame, the artist punctuates it with coral beads. The dealer dates the set as 1900 – 1920.
Here is why I am doubting his dates.
1. The size of the silver frame in relation to the comb looks Edo to me.
2. The comb itself is tortoiseshell, while the frame is silver.
3. The tortoiseshell comb has bug bites, a sign of age.
4. The floral design is attached to the comb instead of being cut out of one piece.
5. The cutting in the middle of the kogai stick is a line in the middle of two hearts, facing inward.
6. The kogai stick has the same decorative theme as the kushi. In modern pieces that mimic the Edo era, the kushi is usually accompanied by an oversized kanzashi, not a kogai stick.
7. Here is another silver Edo set that sold on ebay. In fact, I think it was my first blog post!
The full set selling on Ebay:
The kushi front and back, where you can see the floral design is attached.
A similar set from Miriam Slater’s collection. Notice the cutting of the line in between two hearts on the kogai.
A piece from my collection: this is Taisho. The silver design, comb and theme of flowers in water, are all carved out of one piece of silver, and adorned with gilded brass and black for color. My set is accompanied by a kanzashi, not a kogai.
What does everyone think? Am I seeing this comb set correctly? Agreements / Disagreements welcome.