Category Archives: French Hair Comb

Oh Gracious Lord

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The dealer advertises this to be a French sterling vermeil church crown to be used in the service at the altar. c. 1860-1880. It has hallmarks of Minerva and a Rooster. The crown is set with real diamonds, pearls, amethysts, and rubies. The amethysts are carved into bees and set with pave diamonds.

It was purchased in Paris from a dealer of religious artifacts, and is in perfect condition. All the stones are original. The crown measures 7 1/2 inches (tall) by 6 1/4 inches (at widest point) by 4 1/2 inches (across headband). The seller has not been able to determine who made it.

AND it’s on sale on ebay for the Sotheby’s-level price of $12,499. ;-) When you find something like this, it doesn’t really matter what the price is though. If you can get your hands on it, grab it. Unfortunately, most of us must worship from afar.  I did some research on the internet, and this may be Belgian silver of the Empire period, with the rooster and Minerva markings, which would date it from 1831-1868. I don’t know. Comments welcome.

Of course the famous phrase comes to mind, “Great responsibility comes to those who wear the crown.” How can you not wonder who wore this?

Parure Hair Ornaments

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A full parure includes the matching necklace, 2 bracelets, brooch, ring, earrings, and a hair ornament or tiara. Today I have chosen 5 hair ornaments that are part of demi parures, which were worn in the Victorian period.

This coral hair ornament is on a black silk strap, highlighted by a principal carved coral flower framed by two smaller flowers and an assortment of buds and leaves. It was owned by Countess Rosamund Courten and dates c. 1850.



This gold, enamel, seed pearl, and lapis lazuli brooch attaches to a tortoiseshell comb. The lapis lazuli cabochons are embellished with a cannetille decoration. (Cannetille is a wirework decoration which uses coiled and twisted gold wire to achieve a delicate scrolling effect.) c. 1810



This gold hair ornament c. 1830 has a flowerspray design, set throughout with variously cut rock crystals in blue foiled settings. It also attaches to a tortoiseshell comb.



And finally, these two stunning pieces by Carlo Guiliano, a leader of the Revivalist Movement in mid-19th Century jewelry making. Each hair ornament is part of a different parure. c. 1850.

Some Lovely Things on Ebay

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This 18K gold hair comb with a bamboo frame sold Jan 7 on ebay for $1102.77. It was made by Madison Ave. jewelry designer David Webb, who gave the traditional Japanese kushi shape his own unique, original interpretation.





There was also an auction of Japanese combs, some pieces of which had great artistry. Of course, the combs were expensive because it costs a lot to get them, and many didn’t sell.  I made a deal with the seller to buy this ivory kanzashi for $500 in installment payments because when I saw it, I freaked.







This beautiful Taisho kushi did not sell for a starting price of $480. It is tortoiseshell, painted with a greyish-black lacquer, and it has a toy theme. I think the colors and bold design are magnificent on this piece. The artist GYOKUSEI signed his work. Maybe if the kushi were in mint condition, it would have sold. You can never tell, but I remember a similar piece on Trocadero of a Noh mask selling for $1295. It took a year to sell that piece, but maybe it was by the same artist.





This Meiji blonde tortoiseshell kushi has a superb three-diminsional carving of an old traveler saying goodbye to birds dressed in kimonos, as he goes down the road into the mountains. The artist carved his painting on the front and back to give perspective. Again, the condition is not perfect, but the artistry is fabulous. What a unique theme, how elaborately it was expressed. I loved it, but it also did not sell for a starting price of $480.







A seller wanted $5500 for this Russian Imperial tiara brooch/barrette that was advertised as being from Faberge and made for the Czar’s mistress, a Russian prima ballerina, but no one bought it. You may refer to Auction #250200100650.



Finally, this lovely silver comb from the state of Rajasthan in North India, whose top is a receptacle to hold perfumed oil, sold for $152.50 on Dec 30. The cap is graced by two peacocks, who are the Hindu symbol for immortality. You may refer to Auction #290192625758. There is a dealer on Trocadero who is trying to sell a similar piece for $600, so this was a good buy. :-)

Some Lovely Things on Ebay and Beyond

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There have been some lovely things listed recently on Ebay, and one I missed on Ruby Lane (dash!), that I’d like to share this beautiful Christmas Eve. I hope everyone is having a wonderful holiday.

These pink coral cabachons set in silver, marked 800, are highlighted with tiny seed pearls set in the leaves, and hinged onto a horn comb, c. 1880. I love it. It sold to myrnatoo, my nemesis and supposed best friend ;-P, for $245 on Ruby Lane.





This beautifully designed Sterling silver comb featuring a makers mark: Hermann Duhme of Cincinnati, c. 1860, did not sell for an asking price of $399. I couldn’t afford it, but I thought it was lovely. Maybe overpriced, but the dealer might get her wish at another time, or lower the price $100. You may refer to Auction #110206067490.



This silver-plated brass Japanese kanzashi in the form of a bird cage sold for $470.25. It is Meiji, and even has the small bird in the cage. Marvelous detail. You may refer to Auction #140186354336



I am not sure how much this bird gold and silver kanzashi sold for. The seller was kofudo_jp. I didn’t save the auction, bleh, but I loved the very dramatic birdie.



Finally, although I usually do not do celluloid combs, unless they are Bonaz, I liked this one anyway. The shape is very unusual and striking. This celluloid comb made to look like tortoiseshell sold for $102.50 on Nov 26. You may refer to Auction #250189964524.

Necklace and Hair Comb

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This Art Nouveau plique-á-jour enamel turquoise and diamond necklace and hair comb sold at Sothebys for $29,875 on Dec 10, 2002. The comb is a triangular cluster set with oval-shaped turquoise cabochons. These are the flowers coming out of translucent yellow-orange enamel buds, which are then surrounded by green plique-á-jour enamel leaves. The matching necklace also features old-mine and rose-cut diamonds.

Some Lovely Things on Ebay

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There have been some beautiful things sold on ebay recently.

A beautiful tortoiseshell, gold makie, and coral kogai stick from the Edo period sold for $490 on Nov. 28. You may refer to Auction #300174753664.





A Showa tortoiseshell kushi with two layers of leaves flowing in the wind sold for $257.82 on Nov. 25. You may refer to Auction #330189054886.



A gorgeously carved Victorian ivory comb went for the stunningly low price of $86 because two pieces of it were missing. When such a beauty, with no discoloration, has damage, I hold my head in my hands. Anyway, it was a great bargain, and a beautiful comb. You may refer to Auction #230197013812.



A beautiful 14K rose gold hair pin sold for $383 on Dec 6. You may refer to Auction #250193680625.



On Dec 10, this matching set of beautiful garnet butterfly hairpins went for $760. You may refer to Auction #170174938274.





This beautiful late Edo tortoiseshell kanzashi, c. 1850, sold for an excellent price of $152.53 on Dec 9. The pins are smaller because it was made to be worn at the front of the geisha’s wig. The quality of the shell is translucent blonde and extraordinary. You may refer to Auction #110201844429.



And finally, I bought this butterfly ivory comb on Ruby Lane recently for $245. It looks pretty discolored, but no pieces are missing, and I loved it, so c’est la. Update: I received it. It’s not discolored at all, and it’s huge. I’m thrilled with it.

Alexandre de Paris

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Very rarely will you see an ebay post for a modern hair ornament of this brand. When it does come up, they try to mimic the retail price, which no one will pay on ebay because no one really knows or has any emotional attachment to this brand.

Why? The only place you can buy these ornaments are in Paris, New York, Tokyo — in store. The company has no online presence whatsoever. No layaway, no mailing list, no messageboards, no notificiations of new items, no website, NOTHING!

I’ve been yelling at Jovy (the New York store manager) for years about this. She had a website up briefly, but then it came down. I can’t even get a picture of one of the couture ornaments I die for mailed to me, so I haven’t bought anything in years. However, when a site was briefly up, I did collect some pictures and put together a collage so you can see the handmade beading, fabric art and design that goes into these pieces. They are hand made by atteliers in Paris, so they qualify as haute couture hair pieces.

The real Alexandre de Paris was a hairdresser to the stars. Among others, he did Elizabeth Taylor’s hair when she filmed Cleopatra, and I really think this company’s designs are the heir to Auguste Bonaz’s great art deco combs. So picture 1 is my collage from a catalog long ago, where nothing pictured is remotely available. Picture 2 is my personal collection, which hasn’t been added to in years, but which of course looks like a total mess laid out on my glass vitrine ;-). They are kept in a vanity drawer.



The Combs of Elizabeth Bonte

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Inspired by Lalique, Mme. Elizabeth Bonte was a French jewelry maker who specialized in horn pendants. She merged her workshop with her rival George Pierre, and they made art nouveau jewelry until 1936. Both did much to popularize horn jewelry in France at the turn of the Century.

This comb shows two cicadas on a flowering tree branch. It’s made of engraved horn, heightened with color, and is selling at the Tadema Gallery in the $5000 to $10,000 range. c.1900.



This comb of flowers with subtle shadings is also engraved horn. Signed, E. Bonte, c. 1900, it is selling at the Tadema Gallery in the $1200 to $2400 range. Both combs appear in Bijoux et Reliures-Artistes du XXe Siecle La Bibliotheque des Arts-Paris 1992.

Some Lovely Things on Ebay and Beyond

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This delicately carved blond tortoiseshell comb with 18-karat gold pique, c.1890, sold for $258.88 on Nov. 11. You may refer to Auction #220168340896.



This beautiful blond tortoiseshell hairpin with 14-karat gold decoration and a bar of sapphire and diamonds attached, sold for $229.38 on Nov. 11. You may refer to Auction #220168352193. I thought this one was ridiculously underpriced. I wonder where everyone was.



This Meiji gold, silver, and coral bira bira kanzashi went for $305 on Oct. 22. You may refer to Auction #300161851114.



I’m buying this Japanese silver, gold plate, and black enamel Showa set from Shigeru’s brother in Japan. I liked the 3-dimensional quality of it. Lotus flowers in a pool of water.



I’m also in installment payments to buy this, a total Barbara piece. It’s Regency, c.1820, a floral spray with rhinestones. One of those flamboyant things I had to have, or I’d die. But it seems I’m that way with everything I love. When the Prince Regent, George, stepped in after his father George III went mad in 1811and then ruled from 1820 – 1830, England named the fashion period, Regency, after him.