Rene Lalique made a comb he called, “Bats.” I did a collection of combs with rats and bats on them, I guess this was his entry into rodent life. :-) They are made of blue enamel on a horn comb.
This next one could not be more of a contrast. It’s a tiara of gold, enamel, and sapphires hinged to a horn comb, which a lady would wear to the opera to highlight a sumptuous blue gown. c.1902 – 1903. The comb resides at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.
Best known for its British Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau jewelry, this firm opened in 1880, producing neo-Renaissance pieces. From 1891 – 1916, the imaginative, bright enamel work on their peacock, wing, and insect designs won them Royal patronage. In 1916, the firm closed.
This piece, which is signed, might be part of their earlier work. Hinged to a tortoiseshell comb, the silver tiara is laced with garnets. What I love about it though is the hat on top with its ribbons flowing through silverwork. It sold at Sotheby’s for 1350 UKP.
However, when Child & Child’s artistry became revolutionary, one of their most famous pieces was a tiara of two bright blue enamel peacock wings, which sold at the Tadema Gallery in London. I know the price range was over 20,000 UKP, but I cannot imagine the exact, final price.
This buckle, which can also be worn as a barrette, sports two dragonflies looking at each other. It is made from gilt- and silver-plated metal, metal enamel, and the stones are paste. It is marked with the correct PF signature and was made c. 1905. In the literature, it is listed in the book, “The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910, Munich, 1991, p.273-277.” It is selling at the Tadema Gallery in London for $5,000 +.
This unsigned French art nouveau comb was made of horn, lined with diamonds at the top, and adorned with gold flowers and diamonds in the center.
But this comb has a unique feature. Usually, the engineering belongs to the tines at the bottom. A comb is a practical item designed to hold hair in place, which existed since man first evolved.
I have never seen a chain attached to the top, hooking onto a stick designed to go into two holes, as an additional way to hold hair. It allows you to choose between tines alone, and using the stick as an ornament; using the stick alone and wearing the piece in a longer hairdo; or using both. Very inventive. But since it is unsigned, it’s value is estimated between $4000 and $5000. Update: This comb sold for 2995 euros, or $4280.53
In April, 2008, Christies sold this Lalique horn comb with a blue and green enameled Japanese landscape and a sunset in yellowish orange enamel for $273,500. The comb was made c. 1900 and is one of Japonisme’s greatest expressions from the French side.
On 9/21/09, the SAME COMB was put on sale again with a price estimate of $15,000 to $20,000, and sold for $92,500. I don’t understand this at all. The only thing I can think of is that something happened to the finances of the previous buyer, and they were in trouble. I agree with the first price, just like I agree with the Galliard comb selling for $218,500. Who knows. Someone got a bargain. I hope they realize what they won.
In April 2008, I noted Christies as appraising this Lucien Galliard comb (c. 1900) at $100,000 to $150,000. I guess it didn’t sell. Today, it’s appearing at auction again with an estimate of $80,000 to $120,000. The art is still astonishing, but markets have changed, sadly. Addendum: No, they haven’t! Price realized: $218,500, 10/21/09
Called the bluebird comb, three dark- and light-blue enamel and gold bluebirds have diamond eyes and soar through pale blue and white plique-à-jour enamel clouds. The stars are made from old-cut diamonds.
Lucien Gaillard employed Japanese craftsmen in order to create jewelry for the 1900 Paris Exposition. When Lalique saw his collection, he told Gaillard to focus on that area. Following the Exhibition, Galliard’s Japanese craftsman created unique pieces such as the Bluebird Comb, even though he put his own signature on them.
He changed the imagination of the world for all time. Here are an orchid, and something I’ve never seen before: hair sticks with a bouquet of coral flowers on top, very geisha, very Japonisme. The cattleya orchid is made of ivory, gold, enamel, horn, and diamonds and resides in the Cleveland Museum of Art, c.1903-1904. The coral flowers grace the MuseeD’Orsay in Paris, c. 1902.
No one bought this unsigned French art nouveau dragonfly comb, whose wings had a triangular silver inlay. It was priced at $1200, made of finely carved horn, and attributed to Elizabeth Bonte. You may refer to auction #280231759350. Seller relisted twice. Once it went for $202. Then Idiot Me met his reserve of $500 too early. Alain-t got it. I had a snipe bid for $750. I’m such an idiot about reaching the reserve so early. Stupid stupid stupid. I missed it. AAAAAAHHHHHHHH! Oh well, I’ll live. It sold for $750.98. Still a stupendous bargain for what it is. I am sick. SICK!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have to take my anti-anxiety pills and anti-insanity pills and go to sleep now. Hint: the anti-insanity pills won’t work, and I feel like the stupidist person who ever lived. Bonte’s sell at the Tadema Gallery for $220o and $7500 for the cicadas. I’m just sick and having an absolute unqualified diva tantrum about losing. But I must be gracious and congratulate the winner, who is a great collector — through my tears. ;-P
At Christies, they are selling a tortoiseshell and diamond hair comb, est. 400 – 600 UKP c, 1880 on Feb 27 in London.
Christies will also sell a gorgeous French art nouveau horn comb outlined in pearls, which looks like it was made by Louis Aucoc, the teacher of Rene Lalique. That’s estimated at 3000 to 4000 euros, c. 1900, and will sell in Paris on March 4. You can see the similarities to this Aucoc comb selling at the Tadema Gallery.
And then a lovely shell comb with pearls and 14K gold did not sell on ebay for a price of $295. Maybe all the serious collectors have their classic combs, but I thought this was a nice one.
Inspired by Lalique, Mme. Elizabeth Bonte was a French jewelry maker who specialized in horn pendants. She merged her workshop with her rival George Pierre, and they made art nouveau jewelry until 1936. Both did much to popularize horn jewelry in France at the turn of the Century.
This comb shows two cicadas on a flowering tree branch. It’s made of engraved horn, heightened with color, and is selling at the Tadema Gallery in the $5000 to $10,000 range. c.1900.
This comb of flowers with subtle shadings is also engraved horn. Signed, E. Bonte, c. 1900, it is selling at the Tadema Gallery in the $1200 to $2400 range. Both combs appear in Bijoux et Reliures-Artistes du XXe Siecle La Bibliotheque des Arts-Paris 1992.