PATOROMU TAMATEA

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Patoromu Tamatea was of the Ngati Tamateautahi, a sub-tribe of Ngati Pikia. He carved canoes. When that work ceased in 1864, he was involved in settling a dispute over pigs. In later life, he started carving wood items, including combs, for British Captain Gilbert Mair. Many of his carved figures are now in the Auckland Museum and in the Museum of New Zealand.

“Heru” is the Maori word for ‘comb.’  “Heru paraoa” means whalebone comb. In Maori culture (which has strongly informed developing NZ culture) a person’s head is “tapu,” or sacred, prohibited, restricted, under protection. The higher the rank of the person, the more tapu their head. Therefore, anything that came in contact with the head (like combs) was also tapu, and had to be treated with great care.

One of Tamatea’s combs just sold on ebay for $1825. I think if this went at Sothebys, someone would have paid over $10,000 for it.

I have rarely seen anything with this indelible level of drama, passion, boldness, inspiration, and courage. This is an unqualified masterpiece, expressing the soul of a tribal god. It was a privilege to see it. Made of bone, c. 1870, the inlay is native paua shell. The face exists on both sides of the comb. I also found another comb by this same artist, as well as a link to the wooden carving of the Madonna and Child, both of which are housed in the Museum of New Zealand. Mr. Tamatea died in 1890.

 

Kind Hearts and Coronets

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This peeress coronet was made for a countess, the wife of an Earl, to be worn at the coronation of Edward VIII. It was made in London, 1936, for  the coronation , which was planned on the 12th of May, 1937. However, Edward abdicated in December 1937 to marry divorcee Wallis Simpson, and the coronation never took place.

The coronet would presumably have been worn at the coronation of his brother George VI later in 1937.  It is made of a circlet of silver, gilded, with eight strawberry leaves and eight balls on raised points denoting the rank of Earl. It is lined in crimson silk velvet with gold tassel and trimmed with ermine around the base. It  was designed to be worn on the top of the head, usually in conjunction with a tiara, so is 16 cm [6.25 inches] in diameter and 16 cm [ 6 .25 inches] tall.

This text and image must be credited to Rowan and Rowan, a shop in London that has fabulous things, most notably cameos. I have bought two things from them, but I missed this by minutes! Argh!

The Combs of Elizabeth Bonte

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Inspired by Lalique, Mme. Elizabeth Bonte was a French jewelry maker who specialized in horn pendants. She merged her workshop with her rival George Pierre, and they made art nouveau jewelry until 1936. Both did much to popularize horn jewelry in France at the turn of the Century.

This comb shows two cicadas on a flowering tree branch. It’s made of engraved horn, heightened with color, and is selling at the Tadema Gallery in the $5000 to $10,000 range. c.1900.



This comb of flowers with subtle shadings is also engraved horn. Signed, E. Bonte, c. 1900, it is selling at the Tadema Gallery in the $1200 to $2400 range. Both combs appear in Bijoux et Reliures-Artistes du XXe Siecle La Bibliotheque des Arts-Paris 1992.

What A Difference A Century Makes

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Sothebys is having an auction of magnificent jewels, and as I was looking over the tiaras, I couldn’t help but be struck by the contrast between one made in 1870 and another made in 1970.

The Victorian tiara is made of open work panels of stylised Greek key and foliate scrolls, whereas the 70’s piece is a hinged crescent of elongated panels. What a difference a century makes. However, I have to admit, I totally see a Star Wars Princess in that 1970’s tiara. ;-)



Some Lovely Things on Ebay and Beyond

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This delicately carved blond tortoiseshell comb with 18-karat gold pique, c.1890, sold for $258.88 on Nov. 11. You may refer to Auction #220168340896.



This beautiful blond tortoiseshell hairpin with 14-karat gold decoration and a bar of sapphire and diamonds attached, sold for $229.38 on Nov. 11. You may refer to Auction #220168352193. I thought this one was ridiculously underpriced. I wonder where everyone was.



This Meiji gold, silver, and coral bira bira kanzashi went for $305 on Oct. 22. You may refer to Auction #300161851114.



I’m buying this Japanese silver, gold plate, and black enamel Showa set from Shigeru’s brother in Japan. I liked the 3-dimensional quality of it. Lotus flowers in a pool of water.



I’m also in installment payments to buy this, a total Barbara piece. It’s Regency, c.1820, a floral spray with rhinestones. One of those flamboyant things I had to have, or I’d die. But it seems I’m that way with everything I love. When the Prince Regent, George, stepped in after his father George III went mad in 1811and then ruled from 1820 – 1830, England named the fashion period, Regency, after him.

Tiara Leaves

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During the Victorian period, archeological discoveries in Rome and Greece captivated the imagination of jewelers. Leaves found on ancient headpieces became a favorite ornament in tiaras. Here are four lovely examples.

This French tiara, c. 1820, is set in a patterned, gilded frame with faceted crystals. It depicts a spray of hyacinth leaves with raised flower buds. It sold last year for 1000 GBP from a dealer in London.



This English gilt metal tiara and brooch has flowering sprays of myrtle. On the blue velvet cushion that came with it, silver thread was embroidered to read “d.11ten Januar. 1867.” It sold at Sothebys in London for  4,320 GBP.



This Castellani Archeological Revival Gold tiara, c. 1870,  is a simple gold branch bearing sprigs of olive leaves, with circular openings at either end for ribbons. It  was exhibited at The Bard Graduate Center in New York,  Somerset House in London, and Villa Giulia in Rome, and sold for $19,200  at Sothebys.



Last is this diamond tiara, designed as a spray of fern leaves set with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds. The fitted case is by J & P Bapst & Fils Joalliers, 25 Rue du Faubs St Honore, Paris, c. 1870. Sale Price: 82,700 GBP at Sothebys.

Flamboyance

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I’m in the mood for the unusual today, so I thought I’d showcase a few combs that are flamboyant variations of the ones we usually see.

These silver and gold kanzashi from the Meiji era are over-the-top attachments to silver pins. They have 16-petal chrysanthemums, leaves, gold branches, and fringe. They were sold on Trocadero for a ridiculous price because I know this dealer. ;-) I didn’t buy them, though. :-(



This tortoiseshell comb boasts 3 carved shell cameos, one of Athena and two of Flora. It sold for $1295 on Ruby Lane, even with two slightly broken tines and a seperation in the  scrolled ornamentation at the top. The dealer thought it was French, 1860. I am not sure. With  the craze surrounding archeological discoveries that took over Victorian England, it might be English. I’m undecided, but I love it.





This one I am buying. It’s a Victorian Algerian, c. 1870. As aluminum was discovered in 1827, when this was made, the metal was more valuable than gold. Alas, today, the materials in this comb are worth about 35 cents, but I had never seen one like it, and I had to have it. :-) The leaves are acanthus leaves, after Cesar’s headpiece. The chains are silver, and the beads are turquoise-colored glass. I guess one wore this with a toga-like white gown.



This Edo tortoiseshell comb with a silver- and gold-plated copper frame, decorated with coral beads, sold on ebay for $1000 on Oct 15.



I thought this celluloid comb had humor and originality. It is English, c. 1890, and sold on ebay as part of a 7-piece lot.



And last, becuase I must, a flamboyant 19th-century tiara of 18K gold with diamonds, emeralds, rubies, amethysts, garnets, and topaz. I loved all the colors. :-) It is available for sale at a jewelry store on Madison Ave. in Manhattan, which was featured in a NOVA special on diamonds, as having one piece of the French crown jewels.

 

Metamorphosis

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Metamorphosis, a poetic strategy whereby plants and animals fused with the human form, was commonly used in art nouveau jewelry, perhaps most famously by Rene Lalique. Jewelers created mystical creatures, who emerged from nature erotically, as leaves and dragonfly wings were teased into looking like parts of the body. In comb making, parts of an animal or human body were elongated into being functional parts of the comb.

This comb was the star of the Lalique / Japanese comb-comparison exhibit in Hakone, Japan. The museum wouldn’t send the catalog outside of Japan. I had to ask my friend Shigeru-san’s brother to get it for me and send it. But, oh my God. I never knew this comb existed.

It is an honor for me to present what I believe to be the first Internet images of Lalique’s comb, “Metamorphosis.” It is ivory, with gold trim, pearls on the gold. The trim is faceted to the ivory by nails on the side and gold loops ended by lapis hearts. In it, a woman is born out of leaves: Rodin on a comb, an astonishing marriage of art and functional design.







My Little Mystery

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About a year ago, I bought this little ivory comb on Ebay for around $24. I liked it. It was unusual. No one else wanted it. So, c’est la. As I was researching the web one day, I came across this little interesting picture from the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The picture was called “Designs for a Pendant and Comb.” The text read, “René Lalique (1860-1945), Design for a comb (right), Pen, ink and gouache, Museum no. E.838-1949. The comb was possibly designed to be made from ivory or horn. The latter is an unusual material for jewellery but one that Lalique made frequent use of, especially in his many ornamental combs.” Here was the drawing.



Here is what I bought.





It has what I believe to be a Japanese signature. We know Lalique was heavily influenced by the Japanese comb makers. My little comb even has the same number of tines as the drawing. I have no idea if the maker ever saw Lalique’s drawing, but when I look at my comb, I am reminded of that wonderful children’s novel, “From the Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler.” It’s a mystery.